Costa Blanca Day 3 & 4

Hanns did not behave, so we had to constrain him

On the next day we decided to go to a sector, whose name I have forgotten. But sitting in the car we realized that we would have to drive for at least 40 minutes, so we went to Los Pinos. Having rained the night before, the wall seemed wet and not very inviting from the parking area. After the usual discussing and moaning we took a look and there were actually good conditions.

Thomas pulling the hard finish of Espresso(7a)

 First project of the day Espresso (7a). I first belayed Hanns in this route. When it was my turn, I thought the crux would be the very overhanging start. So I put all my strength and got over this steep part without falling. After this the holds got smaller and smaller but I still was of the opinion that my flash is for sure, but I underestimated the last small pocket to the top and fell off. But this has not broken my will to climb that route and I managed like Hanns to do it at the second go. Stefan had not such problems and did it the first time.

Peter in 2004(7b)

Peter falling off the alternative exit of 2004

Meanwhile Peter has tried himself on 2004 (7b). In an epic go he choose not to take the anker of this route but to top out in the left neighboring route. He gave everything and reached the anker only to fall off before being able to clip it. After this fight he was to exhausted to climb that route. 

Hanns doing dynamic beginnig part of Stormbringer(7a+)

Hanns at the anker of Strombringer(7a+)

As was I after trying that route. I no longer had the slightest chance in Stormbringer (7a+) or in Esco Picant (6c). Hanns had some good attempts in Stormbringer but this wasn't his day either. In the end of day Stefan tried Tirade(7c+), but there was not enough time left for him to do that route.

Panorama view from Los Pinos

In the next morning we had to get up early, because Franzi and Stefan wanted to do a multipitch route at the Penon. Peter, Hanns and I drove to Alcali. Thomas had a rest day, because of his fingers. After warming up in Elendigliches(6a+) and the route with the very informative name Route 5(6b), which are both recommendable, we got to our project Heaven Can't Wait (7b).

Hanns, Peter and I almost can't wait for heaven

 This 26m route has some tricky crossings, where one has to use his whole reach. Hanns was the first one to try it and managed to come to the ramp at two thirds of the route without falling. The following part offers some nasty ledges and a lot of leg spreading. So Hanns needed a while to find a solution for this last part. Next One was Peter who came just as far as Hanns. He also needed some time for the last part. And I also could not learn from the mistakes of my predecessors, and fall off at the same spot. I read once an article about that music could help someone to climb better (http://www.bergleben.de/klettern/2267-regeneration-nach-dem-klettern-kaelte-und-musik-foerdern-erholung.html). And in Hanns and my case this was true. After hearing motivating music at the beginning of the route we were able to do our project. Motivated by this success we climbed Elendigliches again to finish our climbing day.

In the evening we drove to the beach. Hanns took a cold bath while Peter and I watched the Penon , the seagulls and the sea.

Bye for now
Haschi